"But half of the T-shirts I own are black …"
I didn't give much thought to the political situation before flying out. Flights were booked and in my mind, Hong Kong was home for the next 10 months. Protests simmering over summer weren't going away. One side, had to give.
An aptly named Special Administration Region, Hong Kong had been surrendered by China to the British on a 99-year lease. In 1997, the transition began with the establishment of the "One country, two systems" policy, lasting until 2047 in which the handover would be complete. During this period, outlined in Chapter 1, Article 5 of the constitution:
The socialist system and policies shall not be practiced in the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region, and the previous capitalist system and way of life shall remain unchanged for 50 years.
The erosion of this common law happens while our governments and large institutions ignore.
I remember 3 years prior, my first time as a sightseer on the A11 bus from the Chek Lap Kok Airport. As we passed across the Tsing Ma bridge, high-rise buildings emerged in the distance, growing as we ventured further into the heart of Hong Kong. I looked out of the window and up. Monolithic tower blocks loomed over me like the opening scene of Akira. Shouldered together in clusters they formed mansions, estates and homes. Squeezed between a supermarket and a medicinal shop, steam waft from the bamboo baskets of a food vendor. In the same frame, meter-wide circular trays sat outside a dried food shop, scattered with shrimp. The smell, off putting for some, memorable to say the least.
Spanning the majority of the Island, Hong Kong Tramways operates as strident as the first journey in 1904. No wider than the shoulder width of 3 adults, the tram system is frequented by locals and tourists. On a day without responsibility, ride the full 26km circuit from Kennedy Town to Shau Kei Wan and back. Observe the speed at which the world around moves, time is money and so is space.
Connecting Hong Kong to its most remote districts, the MTR rivals the efficiency and cleanliness of Singapore's MRT and Tokyo's Metro. Buses run here too. The service worth noting are the little green or red minibus rocket ships — the red ones especially. Without check-pointed stops, one must shout where to get off … in Cantonese of course, or continue the ride on the world's most cortisol-raising mode of public transport.
Asking a local friend what to do with my free time, she replied:
"Eat."
From 3 a.m dim sum to afternoon tea at the Peninsula, it is hard to find an hour without thinking about food. With 92% of GDP composed of services, fulfilling your daydreams and stomach is never an issue; spending a leisurely hour on a bowl of cart noodles, is, however. If warm service and patient staff are essential to your meal experience, there are plenty of expat-friendly places that'd gladly offer you an international experience. Old Hong Kong has no time or space to entertain.
Owing to the hilly topology, there's no shortage of mountains and peaks in which the world is seen with childlike awe. Any mountain, hill or peak you choose (the 19th floor New College pantry anyone?) land, sea and concrete civilization awaits you at the top. For the adventurous, Hong Kong is hard to disappoint; a variety of hiking trails are scattered across the terrain to roam and explore.
Sunsets, high and low are once again novel. The wet marshlands of Pak Nai overlooks to the Shenzhen special economic zone; sun rays reflect off the marshland plains creating a mirror world below the horizon. The focus shifts to the mainland after dusk — across the sea, Shenzhen illuminates the night with a white halogen glow. The future is just across the water.
11/11
Mistrust towards the Hong Kong police force grew stronger as the police increased their aggression on the protestors and the death of Alex Chow, a HKUST student. On the night before the planned general strike, the police force stormed a university hall and arrested a student. In response to the invasion, the universities across Hong Kong barricaded their campuses; road blocks followed. Peaceful protests continued throughout the week, office workers on the streets in Central and malls echoing chants of support. Hong Kong's youth, taking centre stage.
West Gate entrance, the University of Hong Kong. As police progressed towards the East gate exit, protestors strengthened their hold on the entrances to the campus. The empty street decorated with bricks, each block propped upon two others like legs. By midnight, from Flora Ho to HKU Exit C1, Pok Fu Lam heard no sirens, all vehicles were re-routed around the campus.
A car approaches, stops and leaves.
"They've come to deliver supplies. Food, masks, helmets, water …"
There were students no older than 18 at the lookout posts, what do their parents think?
"The ones outside support them. When they were our age they fought the same struggle we did. It's the revolution of our time."
Chapter 1, Article 1:
The Hong Kong Special Administrative Region is an inalienable part of the People's Republic of China.
For better or for worse, China will not back away from what is theirs. The people of Hong Kong kindle the flame of hope. However small it is.
2047.
To some it can't arrive any faster.
To anyone who can, see for yourself what it is before it is no more.